By Turby the Turbosurfer: A Tale of Two Shirties: a NARTiCAL Adventure (absurdly long) It was the best of times, it was the worst of times. Oops. No politics now. Besides, you wouldn't want me to rehash just another old story, now would you? When the call went out, I thought it was a bit ridiculous. I mean, less than 24 hours to prepare for a week-long trip? But then, again, I needed the trip, had been thinking about it for a while, and have done it before, so why not? That night I told my boss I was taking the next week off and started packing when I got home at midnight. When I checked the 5-day weather forecast: http://iwin.nws.noaa.gov/iwin/ca/state.html it was amazing how clear the next week would be. No rain in the whole state. So much for packing the rain gear. Friday, 9-24-04 It was late morning when I left San Diego, which put me in LA at midday on Friday. Oh fun. But for some reason, traffic wasn't too bad. I only had to lanesplit from LAX to the 101. Then some more in Santa Barbara. It was a long hot boring ride. Remember, this was in that heat spell the state had. I was sure glad I was wearing my cordura suit, and not the leathers. I was sweating enough. Finally, north of King City, I got fed up with the freeway. At Greenfield, I turned toward the sea and did Carmel Valley Road. Hallelujah! It's the best antidote in the world for boredom. 60 miles of unpredictable ups, downs, twists and turns that are a biker's dream. And a great argument for Adny's admonishment about riding within your sightlines. No center line for most of it, and there are a few times where you hit the crest of a hill and have no idea if the road goes left, right, or straight. heh. The trajectory is great, but the surface sometimes is a bit shaky (potholes & gravel.) I'm a closet aficionado of animal warning signs. You know the most common ones - pedestrian, deer, cattle, etc. I liked the one in Ontario outside of Ottawa that warns of turtles crossing the road. There was a sign on the Carmel Valley Rd I've never seen before: "Please Avoid NEWTS Crossing Road When Road is Wet" I didn't see any newts, but I was able to avoid the only critter I did see - a big tarantula ambling down the highway. I got into Monterey just after dusk and crashed, umm  make that checked into a cheap motel. http://client.webshots.com/photo/200826432/202140857litptK Saturday, 9-25-04 Up the coast to Santa Cruz. Checked the surf and the museum at Steamer Lane, then headed up Empire Grade Road, past the Banana Slugs of UC Santa Cruz. (Go, Slugs, go! I wonder if they have any slug warning signs on campus?) Dropped down Felton Empire Rd to CA9, then up to Ben Lomand, and back up to Empire road via Alba Road. At this point I realized I might be late for the meeting, but what the hell, these roads were FUN. And it gave a little motivation to, umm, shall we say, ignore some other road signs? You know, the ones with big numbers? On to Jamison Creek road, then 236 through big Basin State Park, and on up to Alice's. I heard my name shouted as I entered the parking lot. (The crew was obviously starved for entertainment.) Xlax Larry (why does that roll off the tongue?) was there to greet me and introduce me to the rest of the biker scum: http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140864/202140864ZgMndO Scum, perhaps, but also genuinely good, nice people. (Even if dastardly enough to insinuate that I might skip out on my bill! Harumph.) We spent a good long time doing what bikers do - bragging, dissing other Reekers, and laughing. (NO discussion of politics, BTW.) There was a general moan when the shirts took their first Harley ride in California: http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140898/202140898SedUMC and a chuckle when Statman and Yeti showed up to pay their respects to NART and the enviable RC45: http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140907/202140907sUMAVJ more posturing http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140916/202140916pckkHW the passing of the shirts, http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140878/202140878zFLCAv http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140886/202140886ByMLHm and eventually, farewells. Too bad, I'd like to know all of them better. Not sure where I was headed next, when the crew headed off down the hill I hurried to follow them. I caught up to Sara and after a bit, thought "this is a nice casual pace." a 1/2 mile further on, I realized the boys (& Holly) had left her in the dust. Oh yeah? So you guys are having fun, eh? OK. I tried to catch up, but let's face it - me riding a road I'd done once before 8 years ago on my ST1100, trying to catch a guy on an RC45, a guy who's just worn the pucks off his race leathers, a hot babe on her red rocket, and another guy willing to scuff his bags, all with experience on the road and a head start? un huh. On top of that, judging from the behavior of some of the cagers I passed, there must have been some excess testosterone left on the pavement. Lemme know the next time you guys do that, OK? I might learn something. (If Larry's riding sucks, the guy has incredible standards of excellence.) At Half Moon Bay, we parted company, and I was left with a few days to show the shirts a good time. I figured there was a lot of California they hadn't seen and we might have a little fun. Little did I know. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140926/202140926NatrLZ Holly had admonished me about the shirts. "Beware," she said. "Bad weather seems to follow these shirts. There may be a pox on them!" hmmm. I had plans to meet a couple of friends in the bay area, so I holed up at one of my favorite places to stay - the Point Montara Hostel http://www.lighthousegetaway.com/lights/montara.html Sunday, 9-26-04 In the morning, I was shocked to find that the shirts had somehow already made their way outside! What the hell? I don't know how, but the shirts definately seem possessed. But I've come to realize that it's not a bad spirit. The shirts are a protective power. They mean to protect wayward souls in transit from bad weather! http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140931/202140931kIdqbx In the city, I connected with a couple of lady surfers I've known for years, went surfing, and decided to show the shirts some of the urban sights of San Francisco: http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140946/202140946fUNIRV I figured this would be a good time for some cross-cultural education, so we went to Chinatown. I tried to let the shirts "hang out' in a couple of shops, but the clerks were confused by the weird scribbled characters on the shirts, and wanted no part of it. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140955/202140955xaTOjm We crossed the Golden Gate Bridge. At least, I think so. It was kinda hard to tell. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140963/202140963tcFGaY Stayed at one of the surferettes' home in San Rafael that night. (It sure is nice having friends when you're on the road.) She showed me two sets of turns that are identical to the Laguna Seca corkscrew just a couple of blocks from her house. heh. I could get used to that. Monday, 9-27-04 On the road, picked up Hiway One over to the coast. At Muir Beach, I took a right and did a very tasty 12 mile loop around the Muir Woods National Monument. Then north past Stinson Beach and a quick detour to a small town that is so protective of its privacy that all signs pointing to it have disappeared. When you see what tourism has done to some other little towns in the area, it's not a bad idea. North on 1 again, up to Bodega Bay. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140970/202140970bZokSV I checked in with Nate, a Sonoma Coast lifeguard, an incredible waterman, and good surfing bud. This is his bailywick - real shark country: http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140978/202140978gdnoWl He was working so we made plans for later, and I took off to find more roads. Up 1 to the Russian River, inland a bit to the Cazadero Highway, up to Cazadero, then down Fort Ross Road. Now, some people think Hiway One is a twisty road. Sure, there are a few twisty bits on it, but for real twisties, you have to get a bit more isolated. Fort Ross is the ticket. This is a typical straightaway: http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140987/202140987ecoqjG Fort Ross itself was built by the Russians as a fur trading outpost. Cool place & well worth a visit http://www.mcn.org/1/rrparks/fortross/ Further up the coast, I gassed up at Stewart's Point for only $2.40/gal of regular. I'd wanted to do Fish Rock Road, but the old man said most of it is dirt, so to save time, I went East/South on Annapolis Road, then back south on Tin Barn Road and King Ridge Road. Man, what great country! This is what they mean by "Golden California." I love it. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202140996/202140996ECivMF http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141004/202141004JqqLGs http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141010/202141010xcORPw http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141017/202141017riJenF I've always thought that Highway One on the Big Sur coast is one of the greatest places in America. It sure is spectacular. But for a biker, the Northern California coast may be even better. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141024/202141024CUjPyy I made it back to Salmon Creek and Nate's place. I walked over the dunes to check out the surf, and when I got back, was surprised to see the shirts out. I guess they were trying to learn some more life-saving skills. They found a good teacher. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141031/202141031jvVtYn and yes, ladies, he's single. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141044/202141044cbjHsL Tuesday, 9-28-04 Spent the night on Nate's floor. We partied a bit the night before with a friend, Sam. Coming back from a club, Sam was driving his pickup. We were almost home, when he suddenly said, "Watch this!" He pulled off the road into a circular dirt parking lot for a church. He gassed it and we went into a 4-wheel power drift around the lot. We made it around once when 3 deer suddenly jumped in front of the truck. They ran off into the darkness, and we continued spinning around for another 1/2 lap before stalling in the middle. "Wow! you sure spooked those deer," I said. "What deer?" said Sam. hmmm. (& he only had two beers all night.) FWIW, those were the only deer I saw on the whole trip. It was time to head South. On the map, I saw one of the great roads of all time - The Bohemian Highway. Well, it's a great name for a road, at least. It runs from Monte Rio on the Russian River (which bills itself as a "hate free community,") south to Freestone. It's a nice road all right, but it doesn't compare to some others in the neighborhood. I zigzagged back to San Rafael via Valley Ford, Carmody, Two Rock, Chileno Valley, and Nicasio Valley Roads, among others. In town, I needed a new tire, got an MEZ4 at Marin Cycleworks in  Corte Madera. I bitched about their labor prices, but I think they aren't much higher than other places I've seen. Taking a short turn around Tiburon. I realized the road was named Paradise. heh. Well, the shirts have been to Hell, so why not Paradise? I stopped for a pic: http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141048/202141048sucymN That building in the background? That's San Quentin Penetentiary. Some paradise. Wednesday, 9-29-04 After another night in San Rafael, it was over the Richmond Bridge and into Berkeley. We had brekky at a UC campus cafe, thinking maybe eavesdropping on intellectuals some smarts might rub off, but I don't think it worked. FWIW, the choice of motorcycles at our institutes of higher learning is eclectic. Everything from mopeds to euro-hooligans to Harleys. Up the hill - Centennial Drive, Grizzley Peak, South Park, and down Wildcat Canyon. Fun little roads all. Then a disgustingly suburban meander through Pleasant Hill to get to Morgan Territory Road, on the other side of Mt Diablo. The crew at Alice's didn't tell me about this. I wonder why. It's a great road! Well, if you don't mind a few miles of this stuff: http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141058/202141058JUFeYs Sport bikers may find it a bit bumpy, but the soft suspension on the ST lets it fly. A beautiful variety of countryside. Lots of horse ranches (Morgans?) and down into wine country. I think the shirts have a thing for the grape. Definately tasty. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141067/202141067kthZlq The one road the crew did recommend was Mines Road to Mt Hamilton. And they're right. It's great. Lots of sweepers and more than a few twisties. There was a warning about sand on the road, but I didn't see much. There were other dangers though. Screw the deer: http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141076/202141076EsKUZl Mt Hamilton is famous for the Lick Observatory http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141087/202141087eNbMzE http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141093/202141093wPjTxF I guess I must have been stargazing, cause I started missing turns. First it was the turn to Felter/Sierra/Calaveras Roads. I wound up on 101 South through San Jose. (I made sure to thumb my nose at the resident pedant there.) Then I missed another turn to Uvas Road. The next thing I know, I'm on my way to Salinas. hmmm. (No, I don't need a GPS. A woman co-rider, maybe.) Gotta get over to Monterey again. Getting closer on highway 68, I realized the shirts had jumped off the bike again! Damn! Those NARTy shirts are always looking for more excitement. I finally tracked them down. At the track, of course. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141100/202141100ScPYSW Found another cheap motel in town and hung around to look up some old haunts. I spent a lot of good times here at DLI and it's always been one of my favorite places. BTW, Mr Hunt, Duffy's Tavern is still going strong on Hill St. Wednesday, 9-30-04 Biscotti & coffee in Carmel, then a cruise around the coast. Stopped at the Mission - officially San Carlos Borromeo de Carmelo Mission. Founded by Fra Junipero Serra. He's the guy who started it all, of course. (You can blame him - another religious fanatic. ;-)) He brought the wheel to California. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141109/202141109TyCUXC Then of course, it was a ride down one of the all-time greats - Highway One past Big Sur. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141116/202141116afAinB Before the road hits civilization again,  just past Cambria, is the tiny community of Harmony. Dunno why, but I always smile as I pass. It's also seemed curious to me that there are _two_ NART shirts. Now I think I know why. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141123/202141123HNdSNH (Yeah, I know. The political pundits will point out that to get Harmony, you have to turn left.) I spent a lot of time over the next day & 1/2 looking for surf. Some nice isolated beaches, and beautiful coastline. A lot of that time was with a surfing buddy who lives in Ventura. Thursday, 10-1-04 More beach time, on down to Zuma and Malibu. There was a women's surf contest at Leo Carillo going on when we pulled up. As we watched, a girl walked in front of us carrying her board with her one arm. We realized it was Bethany Hamilton, whose arm was bitten off by a shark in Hawaii last year. It's great to see her competing again. I started looking for a place to camp that night, and found it up Malibu Canyon road. Set up my tent, and went back out to find more twisties. There are plenty in the Santa Monica Mountains. Down Piuma Road to Las Flores, up Latigo Canyon to Mulholland. Into Santa Monica/Venice for dinner and back to camp. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141130/202141130CAqawG Friday, 10-2-04 Meeting the LA Reekers at 10am, so I had time for a few more twisties. Over Mulholland, down Old Topanga and Tuna Canyon, then north to Decker Road and back to the Rock Store. It wasn't long before SG & The Red Headed She Devil showed up. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141138/202141138kPJKqd Then Thumper on his rocket http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141143/202141143TpnGaB http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141152/202141152NwEZun http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141162/202141162jigpUL Eventually we had to hit the road. But there was one last bit of California hospitality remaining: http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141171/202141171ZTzaoZ When I finally got the shirts home, I had to show them some local surfing. We went down to the beach. I tried to explain to them about taking unknown risks, and the dangers of getting in over your head on something that looks so simple, yet takes skill, just like riding a motorcycle. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141183/202141183VmuynP They were real excited to try it out. It's not surprising, considering all the safety training they've had lately. I tried talking them out of it, (really, I did,) and I thought I'd succeeded, but one of them snuck out while I wasn't looking. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141188/202141188NjHDkJ It wasn't pretty. http://client.webshots.com/photo/202141201/202141201ckRUGz But all's well that ends well, and the shirts are safe and sound and eager to get back on the road. The trip took 1994 miles, 1336 of that was carrying the shirts. Turby the Turbosurfer